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2014 Ford SuperDuty Front End Refresh And Brakes.

The Rig

As of this spring (2024), I’ve been dealing with a bit of a loose front-end for a while. More recently, the brakes started dragging and the pads are worn out to the point they sound like metal on metal, so clearly its time for a refresh.

Initial Inspection

The tie rod ends and brakes were in pretty terrible shape.

Drag link: Pitman arm to the steering knuckle was in particularly bad shape.

Track bar: locates the axle from side to side. Ball joint will require a long press. I didn’t replace these parts this time.

The SuperDuty uses Ackerman steering geometry.

The SuperDuty, like many heavy-duty trucks, employs Ackerman steering geometry to enhance its maneuverability and reduce tire wear. This steering principle, named after Rudolph Ackerman, ensures that during turns, the inside wheel follows a tighter radius than the outside wheel. In the F-350’s robust front end, this is achieved through carefully designed steering knuckles and tie rods. The Ackerman angle allows the truck to navigate tight corners more efficiently, particularly important given its substantial size and wheelbase. While not directly related to the front-end refresh, understanding this aspect of the F-350’s design adds appreciation for the engineering that goes into these workhorse vehicles, aligning with Steelbak’s focus on mechanical knowledge and DIY skills.

Getting to work

Working on my gravel driveway wasn’t my favorite, but it isn’t so bad. I’ll be looking into putting concrete down soon.

Finding good jack and jack stand points is a little tricky on the SuperDuty. I had to use the axle, which is common, but not really ideal.

I went with Moog

Next time I might try Carli or Kryptonite steering kits.

Tie Rod and Drag Link Torque settings:

  • Outer tie rod nuts: 85 ft-lbs
  • Upper drag link?: 145 ft-lbs
  • Steering dampener to drag link: 67 ft-lbs
  • Track bar (The main purpose of the track bar is to center the axle) : ball joint side: 188 ft-lbs Upper bolt is 405 ft-lbs
  • Two-piece flat wheel nuts: 21mm socket. Apply one drop of motor oil between the flat washer and the nut. 150 ft-lbs

Brakes

Rotors, calipers and pads all need to be replaced. I went with Power Stop Drilled and Slotted Rotors and Z36 Carbon-Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads Brake Kit front and rear. These brakes are amazing.

The caliper were toast, so I got re-manufactured calipers from AutoZone?

DOT 4 fluid. Has a higher boiling point.

  • 55 ft-lbs
  • 166 ft-lbs

Bleeding:

Using the brake pedal, only go about 3/4 of the way to the floor so as to not damage the master cylinder.

Order of bleeding: passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front.

Alignment

Alignment is actually pretty simple if you have concrete of something like that. You don’t need to do this, but I took the Motorsport Wheel Alignment course from HP Academy.

Toe alignment plate

Spindles and hubs needs replaced soon also.

OEM Spindles